Victorian Crib Quilt - Part 4


Finished size of sample is approximately 49” square. Size may be adjusted up or down by changing measurements of the blocks and/or sashing strips and border. Quilt will be completed over 4 months (December 2006 - March 2007); required embroidery designs and instructions will be featured on a monthly basis.

Materials Needed

Refer to directions for December block (Part 1) for materials list and cutting instructions.


Sewing Directions for "Part 4"

  1. Arrange the 9 embroidered blocks as desired.
  2. Place one 9½"x4½" rectangle vertically between the embroidered squares. Refer to diagram below for placement. Stitch each horizontal row, using a ¼" seam allowance. (If a quarter inch foot is not available, simply move the needle position to the right - using the stitch width button to change the setting to 7. 0.)
  3. Press seams toward the sashing.
  4. Measure all three strips, and use an average of the lengths to cut the horizontal sashing strips. The strips are cut 4½" wide by the length determined by an average of the above measurements.
  5. Stitch one horizontal sashing strip to the top row of blocks, matching raw edges.
  6. Stitch one horizontal sashing strip to the section completed in the previous step.
  7. Continue stitching strips until all the pieces are joined. You will have a total of 4 horizontal sashing strips.
  8. Press seam allowances toward the sashing strips.
  9. Measure the piece lengthwise to determine the length for the vertical strips - again 4½" wide.
  10. Stitch one vertical strip to each side of the piece.
  11. Measure across the resulting large square in 3 places, and once again use an average to determine the length of the first border strips.
  12. Cut 2 of the 3½" wide strips (pastel fabric) to the length determined in step 10.
  13. Stitch one strip to opposite sides of the quilt top.
  14. Press seam allowances toward the border strips.
  15. Measure across the quilt top in 3 places, and use an average to determine the length of the remaining two border strips.
  16. Stitch one 3½"(second pastel) square to each end of both strips.
  17. Press seam allowances toward the border strips.
  18. After all border strips are in place, mark the center of each strip - both directions.
  19. Determine placement and mark the borders for the final embroidery - Design # 4 "Border Design". For the sample, 4 designs were used on each side of the quilt top.
  20. Following the above embroidery directions, embroider the desired number of Border designs on each border of the quilt.
  21. Cut a piece of batting about 2" larger all around than the quilt top.
  22. Repeat with the backing. It may be necessary to piece the backing using leftover pastels and the backing fabric.
  23. On a large flat surface, place the backing wrong side up.
  24. Place the batting piece on top of the backing, and smooth out.
  25. Place the quilt top on top of the batting/batting and smooth out.
  26. Baste the layers together (with needle and thread or pins).
  27. To mark the quilt top, place a mark 1" from the outside edge of each medallion - one will be a circle, one a square and one a square on point.
  28. For the sample, a 12" diameter circle was used to mark the quilting circle lines - making sure that the outside edges are at the corners of the block.
  29. To mark the borders, place dots at each end of an embroidered border design - ¼" away from the end of the design, and ¼" above the embroidery (see diagram). Connect the dots, forming an X design. After the last embroidery on each end of the border, extend the line out to the edge of the quilt.
  30. Change to size 14 needle.
  31. Thread the machine with 30 wt.-variegated thread, and wind 2 or 3 bobbins with the same thread. For the sample, a different color was used for each of the colored blocks i.e., one for the peach, one for the green, and one for the yellow. One of those colors was then used for the other quilting as well.
  32. Set the machine up for free motion stitching by lowering the feed dogs and attaching the darning/embroidery foot. Begin quilting with the center block - stippling between the marking done in step 27 and the edge of the block.
  33. After all the stippling is done, set the machine up for regular stitching - raise the feed dogs, and attach the quarter inch foot.
  34. Select from the green folders, tab #1, bottom row, third stitch from the left. This is the straight quilting stitch. This stitch can also be found on the Futura.
  35. Using the center marking on the foot as a guide, stitch on the marked lines forming the circles.
  36. If a quarter inch foot is not available, refer to step 2 above to move the needle position, and using the edge of the foot as a guide along the seamlines, stitch ¼" inside the seam that attaches the final border.
  37. Move the needle position back to center, and using the center marking on the foot as a guide, stitch on the marked lines around the embroidery on the borders.
  38. Change to size 12 needle.
  39. Change to all-purpose thread in needle and bobbin.
  40. Choose straight stitch from green folder #1 - first stitch on left in top row.
  41. If not using a quarter inch foot, move needle position to the right (7.0).
  42. Measure around the outside edges of the quilt. From the backing fabric (or another fabric of choice), cut enough 2½" wide strips to equal that measurement + 18" to 20".
  43. Join the strips, using diagonal seams. Press seam allowances open.
  44. Press the entire strip in half, lengthwise.
  45. Starting about in the middle of one side, and leaving a 12" tail of binding, align the raw edges of the strip with the raw edge of the quilt top (the excess batting and backing have not been trimmed yet). Stitch the binding in place all around the quilt, mitering the corners. Stop stitching about 15" away from where the stitching begins.
  46. Lay that area on a flat surface, and fold each binding strip back on itself - leaving a ¼" gap between the two folds. Try to center the gap within the 15" opening. Finger press the folds to mark.
  47. Open out each end of the binding and draw a line across the fold mark, and another line on the lengthwise fold line, creating a +.
  48. With the edge of a square ruler on the + mark, line up the 45o mark with one long side of the binding strip, and draw a diagonal line at the ruler's edge.
  49. Repeat with the other strip - making sure both lines angle in the same direction.
  50. Fold each strip on the diagonal line, right sides out.
  51. Pin-match the center markings, then each end of the diagonal lines. Stitch the seam, and trim allowances to ¼". Press seam open.
  52. Lay the binding in place along the quilt edge to make sure it is the correct length.
  53. Fold the binding in half and stitch in place, backstitching at each end of the gap.
  54. Trim batting and backing ¼" wider than quilt top. Doing this will create a "padded" binding instead of a flat one. If the padded look is not desired, simply trim batting and backing even with the raw edge of the quilt top.
  55. Wrap binding to wrong side of quilt and slipstitch in place. If hand stitching is not desired, the binding can be pinned in place (covering the previous stitching line) and stitched in place from the front - stitching in the ditch.

SINGER® and Quantum® are registered trademarks of The Singer Company Limited or its affiliates. ©2007 The Singer Company Limited. All rights reserved.

Compatible Machines

  • CE-100 | FUTURA™
  • XL-6000 QUANTUM®
  • XL-5000 QUANTUM®
  • XL-150 | Quantum®
  • CE-200 | FUTURA™
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